The 1820's saw great changes to the industry. Dresses were of silk, still with highish waists but with bodice detailing such as pintucks and wide puff sleeves, which required a shawl. Shawls are woven in one piece with bold design and color. During the 1830's the skirt got larger, balanced by huge sleeves, until by 1840 several starched white petticoats or a horsehair petticoat were worn, replaced in 1856 by whalebone hoops or the crinoline frame. It was at this time of the widening skirts that the shawl really became popular

1809, Small black shoes peep out from under this long-sleeved white dress. The bonnet is small, very close to the head, with pale pink trim. A large orange-and-yellow-striped cashmere shawl covers the simple white gown.
1809, Pink half-boots match the pink of the large cashmere shawl worn by this lady. A black straw bonnet with a moderate-sized brim sits on the lady's head, revealing two dangling cork-screw curls.
1811, A low-cut gown made of a beautiful pink cashmere shawl. Another shawl, white, is carried by the lady. Her headdress is of roses and pearls. The slashing on the long sleeves is part of the fad for Renaissance dress.

images are provided by The Costume Gallery